Until recently, the idea of making shoes at home, especially stylish and wearable ones with just my regular sewing machine, seemed like a distant dream. I always associated DIY shoemaking with simpler styles like espadrilles or hand-sewn moccasins. But that perception completely shifted when I successfully created my first pair of Brogue Oxfords from leather, and I couldn’t be more thrilled with how they turned out.
Whenever I venture into a new creative area, I find that taking a class is incredibly helpful, much like when I explored knitting and millinery. Inspired by I Can Make Shoes on Instagram, I decided to enroll in their online Boot Making class. While waiting for my materials to arrive, I immersed myself in the course content, already anticipating a trip to Indianapolis to source the perfect leather. In January, while visiting Indy with my parents, my mom and I made a memorable trip to Landwerlen’s Leather Supply. The experience was fantastic, and we had a wonderful time selecting leathers. It was there that I discovered a beautiful navy lambskin hide that immediately caught my eye.
Initially, I was sketching boot designs, but when I mentioned my ideas to my dad, the thought of Oxford shoes came to mind. I fondly remember watching him polish his own Oxfords as a child, and this classic style always reminds me of him. The image of navy Oxfords stuck in my head, and instead of pushing forward with boots, I turned to YouTube to watch tutorials on Oxford shoemaking. Although these videos showcased professional or factory settings, combining them with the ICMS course gave me the confidence to begin. I even documented some of this process on my Instagram.
My first step was creating my own pattern by taping up my shoe last and sketching the design. Then, I made a felt mock-up to understand the overlaps and proportions. Working with leather requires precision, as you generally have only one chance to sew it correctly. Therefore, ensuring the fitting and plan were perfect beforehand was crucial. Before any stitching, I focused on the broguing—punching decorative holes. It involved careful measuring and a few adjustments until the upper parts were ready to be stitched together.
Next, I created and stitched together a lining pattern, then attached it to the upper. For anyone seeking in-depth instructions, I highly recommend enrolling in a class or doing thorough research. If you are detail-oriented and understand garment construction, making shoes is definitely within reach. I wouldn’t describe it as easy, but it’s a rewarding challenge that definitely taught me a lot!
Once the upper and lining were connected, the tongue sewn in, and lacing holes punched, it was time to attach the shoe to the insole and sole. This stage required a lot of glue and, most importantly, patience. I found cutting the thick sole leather and heels, and then smoothing them, to be the most challenging part. Achieving even sole edges felt like a victory, but I know professionals refine this further with hot tools, wax, broken glass, and dyes. I appreciate the current look of my soles, but I’m eager to learn more techniques to elevate future pairs.
I chose to complete one shoe from start to finish before beginning the second. I learned significantly from the first shoe and applied improvements to the second. And I’m already looking forward to making even better pairs in the future!
While I haven’t yet worn these Oxfords outside (Midwestern winter weather!), I’m excited to wear them as soon as the sidewalks are clear and dry. They are incredibly comfortable. Now, the fun part is deciding what outfits to pair them with!
