What is a Perm? Everything You Need to Know About Modern Perms

Perms are back in a big way, but forget those images of stiff, overly-processed curls from decades past. Today’s perm is all about embracing effortless style with loose, natural-looking waves. If you’re dreaming of waking up to enviable, beach-kissed waves every day, a modern perm might be the perfect way to “permanently” change your everyday look and simplify your styling routine.

Defining a Perm: A Century of Waves

Believe it or not, the concept of perming hair has been around for over a century. At its core, a perm, short for “permanent wave,” is a chemical treatment designed to alter your hair’s natural texture. While the technology and techniques have evolved significantly, the fundamental principle remains the same: using chemicals to reshape the hair strands into waves or curls. The modern perm, however, is a far cry from the harsh treatments of the past, offering gentler formulas and more customizable results.

Cold Perms vs. Digital Perms: The Process Explained

Salons primarily utilize two methods to achieve those coveted waves: cold perms and digital perms. In a cold perm, your stylist will meticulously wrap sections of your hair around rollers or rods of varying sizes to create different curl patterns. Once the hair is secured, a chemical perm solution is applied. This solution breaks down the disulfide bonds in your hair, which are responsible for its natural shape. After a processing time, a neutralizer is applied to reform these bonds around the shape of the rods, effectively “perming” your hair.

Digital perms follow a similar initial process of wrapping the hair. However, the rods used in this technique are heated. This heat activation works in conjunction with the chemical solution to restructure the hair follicles. Digital perms are often favored for creating softer, more natural-looking waves and are sometimes considered gentler on the hair compared to traditional cold perms, especially for certain hair types.

Modern Perms: Natural and Customized Curls

The biggest shift in perms is the move away from uniform, tight curls to more relaxed and natural styles. Gone are the days of everyone sporting the same poodle-like perm. Today’s stylists use a variety of roller sizes and even cloth wraps to create customized curl patterns. This allows for a more organic and less “done” look, mimicking natural waves or enhancing existing ones. Whether you desire loose beach waves, voluminous body waves, or defined curls, a modern perm can be tailored to your specific preferences. The entire process, depending on your hair’s length and thickness, can take anywhere from one to two hours, or even longer for more complex styles.

Are Perms Right for Your Hair Type?

Perms aren’t exclusively for those with straight hair. Individuals with naturally wavy or even curly hair can benefit from a perm to enhance their existing wave pattern, add more bounce, or achieve greater uniformity in their curls. Hair length is also not a major limitation. If you can curl your hair with a curling iron, your hair is generally long enough for a perm.

However, the health of your hair is a crucial factor in determining perm suitability. Perms work best on healthy, virgin hair that hasn’t been previously dyed or chemically treated. If your hair is dry, bleached, color-treated, or damaged from heat styling, a consultation with your stylist is essential. They can assess your hair’s condition and advise on the best course of action. Often, preparing your hair with custom conditioning treatments and hair supplements prior to the perm service can significantly improve the outcome and minimize potential damage.

How Long Does a Perm Really Last?

While “perm” stands for “permanent,” modern perms are more accurately described as semi-permanent. Once the perm is set, the treated hair will indeed remain curled. However, you’re not locked into a permed style forever. As your hair grows, the new hair will grow in with your natural texture, creating a contrast over time.

Generally, you can expect a modern beach wave perm to last anywhere from three to six months. The longevity depends on your natural hair growth rate, hair type, and how well you care for your permed hair. As the perm grows out, the top portion of your hair will gradually return to its original texture, while the ends will retain the wave. For those who wish to maintain continuous curls, perm root touch-ups are an option to refresh the perm on the new hair growth and avoid a noticeable difference in texture from roots to ends. It’s also worth noting that naturally wavy or curly hair tends to hold a perm’s shape for a longer duration compared to straight hair.

Perm Aftercare: The First 48 Hours

Proper aftercare is vital for ensuring your perm sets correctly and lasts as long as possible. In the initial 24 to 48 hours following your perm, your hair is still settling into its new shape. To allow the curls to fully lock in, it’s crucial to avoid washing your hair, tying it up tightly, or using any heat styling tools during this period. This allows the chemical process to complete and prevents disrupting the newly formed curl pattern.

Chemical Treatments and Perms: Timing is Key

If you’re considering coloring your hair, it’s important to factor in the perm. It’s recommended to wait at least 7 to 10 days after getting a perm before coloring your hair. The hair dyeing process involves opening the hair cuticle to deposit color. Coloring your hair too soon after a perm can lead to over-drying and damage, as both processes are chemical treatments. It can also potentially interfere with the perm chemicals and loosen your newly formed curls.

Maintaining Your Waves: Long-Term Perm Care

For long-term perm maintenance, minimizing water exposure is beneficial. Frequent shampooing and swimming can gradually loosen the perm and diminish those beautiful waves. When you do shampoo, opt for sulfate-free and sodium chloride-free shampoos and conditioners specifically designed for color-treated or permed hair. These gentle formulas will cleanse your hair without stripping away moisture or causing frizz, helping to prolong the life of your perm.

Styling Your Perm: Embrace the Waves

Caring for your permed hair goes hand-in-hand with styling it. Whether you prefer a low-maintenance wash-and-go style or a more defined and polished look, the right styling products can make all the difference. Transitioning to styling aids formulated for textured hair is key to enhancing your perm’s beauty. Consider incorporating a custom hair oil and custom curl cream into your routine. These products are designed to hydrate your curls, boost bounce, and minimize frizz, giving you that coveted effortless wave definition. If you’re new to styling waves and curls, don’t hesitate to seek guidance. Taking a Prose hair consultation can provide you with personalized product recommendations and a tailored routine to care for and style your perm, both before and after the treatment.

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