A toner is a semi-permanent hair color specifically designed to deposit color only. It differs from permanent hair color because it doesn’t use a developer that “lifts” or removes existing hair color (natural or dyed). Consequently, a toner can only alter the tone or deepen the color of the hair it’s applied to.
The terms toner, gloss, and glaze were often used interchangeably in salons. Many stylists might call it a “gloss” because it sounds appealing, and high-quality toners leave the hair with exceptional shine.
Toners are not inherently damaging. In fact, they’re often essential for achieving the desired hair tone (warm or cool) and correcting unwanted tones that may emerge during the coloring process. However, toners cannot make your hair lighter or brighter.
Toners can reduce some of the harshness from a fresh bleach job. If you prefer a very bright blonde and your hair lifts well with bleach alone, you might be able to skip the toner altogether.
Toners typically last a few weeks and are designed to fade gradually without leaving a noticeable line of demarcation. This means that if you lighten your hair and tone it to a specific shade (like a cool caramel), the color will fade over time, and the lightened areas may appear warm, brassy, or coppery. This is easily rectified with another toning session at the salon.
Toners are gentle on the hair and add shine and softness, mitigating the harshness that bleach can sometimes leave behind. They subtly or significantly “dim” the hair, and when properly formulated, deliver the perfect color.
For a toner to work effectively, the hair must be lifted to the correct lightness. For example, if your hair was highlighted to a level 8 and appears brassy or orange after shampooing, achieving a pale highlight result will be difficult, regardless of how many rounds of neutralizing toner your stylist applies. Conversely, if you find that your toner is leaving your lightened hair too cool, resulting in a gray or purple hue, you can ask your stylist to adjust the formula for a warmer outcome.
Toners can also be diluted to lessen their impact. Some toners are primarily “clear” with just a touch of colored toner added, such as “a capful of 9N.” This means only a subtle amount of toner is deposited on the lightened hair to adjust any unwanted warmth.
While toners are often associated with lightened hair, they can also enhance darker hair. If you have dark brown hair and desire a subtle tone shift, an all-over toner application is an easy, low-maintenance option to create a rich color. You can opt for a warm or cool tone, and choose a depth as dark as you prefer.
Toners cannot fully cover gray hair, but they can softly “dim” the stark contrast between gray and brown hair. For clients who aren’t ready for the commitment of permanent color, an all-over toner application, sometimes under light heat, can help blend gray hair without creating a strong line of growth.
In summary, toners are versatile tools in hair coloring. They can be used in numerous ways, and while many stylists use them regularly, sometimes the brightness of a raw lift blonde is preferred. If you desire a brighter blonde result, discuss skipping or adjusting your toner formula with your stylist to achieve your desired look.
