Bulgogi, often dubbed the cornerstone of Korean cuisine for meat lovers, is more than just a dish; it’s a flavorful journey through Korean culinary heritage. For many outside of Korea, bulgogi is often their first and most cherished encounter with Korean food. My own introduction to cooking bulgogi was quite unexpected – not in Seoul, the heart of Korean gastronomy, but in the rural landscapes of Northern Kentucky. A local farmer, having savored bulgogi at a Korean restaurant, requested an “authentic” rendition during my stay. As someone with deep family roots in Seoul, I felt a delightful sense of obligation to introduce him to this iconic dish.
Bulgogi is traditionally prepared with thinly sliced beef, marinated to perfection in a symphony of soy sauce, sugar (or honey for a touch of natural sweetness), fragrant sesame oil, pungent garlic, savory onion, and frequently, the subtle sweetness of pureed Asian pear. The beauty of bulgogi lies in its adaptability; Korean home cooks often marinate the beef overnight, allowing the flavors to deeply penetrate the meat, before grilling or stir-frying it alongside an array of sliced onions, vibrant scallions, earthy mushrooms, and other seasonal vegetables. The reality is, there isn’t one definitive bulgogi recipe. Each Korean restaurant and family kitchen boasts its unique interpretation, passed down through generations with cherished tweaks. My own grandmother, a culinary innovator, once experimented with substituting Asian pear puree with kiwi puree for a chuseouk (Korean Thanksgiving) feast, while my mother often opted to omit fruit puree altogether, proving the dish’s delightful flexibility.
The Everyday Icon: Bulgogi’s Place in Korean Culture
Growing up in South Korea, bulgogi was simply a part of everyday life. It wasn’t a dish reserved for special occasions, but rather a common and comforting presence. From school lunch trays to home-cooked meals and casual mom-and-pop restaurants, bulgogi was readily available. Supermarkets stocked pre-marinated bulgogi, making it an incredibly accessible meal option. Despite its ubiquity, a curious shift in perception has occurred over time. For contemporary South Koreans, particularly the younger generations, bulgogi is sometimes viewed as a slightly old-fashioned dish, its popularity having waned since its golden era from the 1960s to the 1980s. The rise of American fast food and casual dining chains in South Korea since the 1990s has gradually reshaped the dining landscape, leading to the decline of many bulgogi specialty restaurants. As a teenager, I recall my own reluctance to join my grandparents at bulgogi or naengmyeon (cold noodle) restaurants, my teenage heart set on the novelty of Pizza Hut and Outback Steakhouse.
Setting up for a bulgogi meal at Woo Lae Oak, a restaurant in Seoul, South Korea, that has been operating since 1946.
Bulgogi’s Transatlantic Journey: Recreating Home in Kentucky
It was precisely this contrast – bulgogi’s commonality in Korea versus its perceived exotic appeal in America – that sparked my curiosity and motivated me to prepare it for my American host. Armed with the desire to create an “authentic bulgogi” experience, I embarked on a quest for ingredients. My first requirement was specific: ribeye or sirloin, “sliced so thin I can see through it.” Sourcing such thinly shaved beef in rural Kentucky proved to be an initial hurdle. Undeterred, my host ingeniously acquired a used meat slicer from an auction and enlisted the help of the local butcher. Next, we embarked on a two-hour drive to a small Asian grocery store in Cincinnati, seeking out essential “Asian” ingredients – soy sauce, scallion, sesame oil, and more – items not readily found in mainstream supermarkets at the time. With our supplies gathered, I turned to the most reliable source of culinary wisdom: my mother. A Skype call to South Korea connected me with her, and she patiently guided me through her cherished family bulgogi recipe.
Cooking bulgogi on a copper pan at Woo Lae Oak restaurant.
From Kitchen to Table: The Kentucky Bulgogi Revelation
On a quiet Sunday evening, the preparation for the long-awaited Korean feast began. The first step, a ritual in Korean cooking, was washing short grain white rice. I then retrieved the marinated beef from the refrigerator and began slicing the onions, scallions, mushrooms, and carrots, the vibrant colors adding to the anticipation. Recalling my mother’s meticulous approach, I stir-fried a small batch of the meat first, a crucial step to fine-tune the balance between sweetness and saltiness in the marinade. The test batch tasted just as I had hoped, a comforting flavor of home. Confident, I poured the remaining marinated beef and vegetables into the heated frying pan. As the sauce reduced and the meat transformed into a beautifully caramelized brown, the aroma filled the kitchen, signaling that the bulgogi was ready.
With my very first batch of bulgogi complete, I presented it to a group of eagerly awaiting Americans at the dining table. In that moment, I felt like a culinary ambassador, representing the flavors of the Republic of Korea. As forks reached out towards the bulgogi, a mix of nervousness and anticipation washed over me. However, my host’s initial reaction was far from what I expected.
“This is not bulgogi!” he declared.
Confusion and disbelief washed over me. Sensing my stunned silence, he clarified, “The bulgogi I had at a Korean restaurant didn’t have any juice to it.”
Photo courtesy of Crystal Rie
Bulgogi: A Spectrum of Styles and Interpretations
I patiently explained that bulgogi is a dish of delightful versatility, existing in numerous variations. The style I had prepared was a family recipe, a home-style bulgogi meant to be enjoyed with rice, its flavorful sauce an integral part of the experience. I further elaborated that, with the majority of my family hailing from Seoul, our version closely resembled Seoul-style bulgogi. Distinct from Korean barbeque, Seoul-style bulgogi is akin to a stew, traditionally cooked on a concave grill pan with broth. This unique pan allows the flavorful juices from the meat to drain and mingle with the broth at the edges, where dang-myeon (sweet potato noodles) or rice are often boiled to complement the meat. In contrast, I described two other prominent regional bulgogi styles from the southern provinces – Gwang-yang and Eon-yang bulgogi – which are charcoal-grilled and bear a closer resemblance to the Korean barbeque-style bulgogi commonly served in restaurants across the United States.
While the term “bulgogi” has become a broad descriptor for thinly sliced marinated meat, this classic Korean dish continues to evolve, both in South Korea and across the globe, seamlessly blending with other cuisines and culinary traditions. In South Korea, bulgogi pizza and burgers have been commonplace menu items in chain and franchise restaurants for decades, showcasing its adaptability. One of my personal favorite ways to enjoy bulgogi, a testament to its versatility, was my mother’s bulgogi sandwich: toasted sandwich bread generously spread with mayonnaise, layered with flavorful bulgogi and crisp red leaf lettuce. Here in Washington, D.C., I’m no longer surprised to encounter food trucks serving bulgogi tacos or vendors at Nationals games offering bulgogi hoagies, further illustrating bulgogi’s global culinary journey.
Authenticity and Evolution: The Ever-Changing Face of Bulgogi
This experience raises a fundamental question: is it even possible to define a single “authentic” version of bulgogi? While cherishing culinary traditions passed down through generations is essential, we must also acknowledge that cuisines are dynamic entities, constantly evolving. Whether in Korea or the United States, bulgogi recipes and cooking methods have undergone countless alterations, modifications, and transformations over time. Attempting to confine a dish within rigid national or regional boundaries to determine its authenticity may ultimately be a futile exercise. In fact, it is precisely bulgogi’s remarkable adaptability that has likely facilitated its global spread and its seamless integration into diverse culinary landscapes.
Enjoying a bulgogi hoagie at Nationals Park in Washington, D.C.
Recipe: Home-Style Bulgogi – Your Gateway to Korean Flavor
To embark on your own bulgogi culinary adventure, here’s a recipe inspired by the home-style version I prepared, a delicious starting point for exploring the world of bulgogi:
Ingredients:
- 1 1/2 lbs shaved beef or thinly sliced sirloin or ribeye
- 1/2 yellow onion, sliced
- 4 stems scallion, diagonally sliced
- 1/2 cup mushrooms (optional, such as oyster or enoki)
Marinade:
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 1/4 cup soy sauce
- 1/4 cup honey
- 1 Tbsp sesame oil
- 1/4 tsp crushed black pepper
Optional Fruit Juice (for enhanced flavor):
- 1/2 apple
- 1/2 Asian pear
- 1/2 lemon, juiced
- 1/2 yellow onion
- 1 inch of ginger (or 1 tsp minced ginger)
Preparation:
- Prepare the Fruit Juice (Optional): If using, combine apple, Asian pear, onion, ginger, and lemon juice in a juicer. Alternatively, blend and squeeze through a cheesecloth.
- Make the Marinade: In a bowl, whisk together soy sauce, honey, sesame oil, black pepper, and the optional fruit juice. For a more refined flavor, consider boiling the fruit juice and letting it cool before mixing with other marinade ingredients.
- Marinate the Beef: In a large bowl, combine the shaved beef, sliced onion, scallions, and mushrooms (if using). Pour half of the marinade over the mixture and gently massage to ensure the sauce evenly coats the ingredients. Refrigerate for at least 20 minutes, or overnight for thicker cuts of beef.
- Stir-Fry the Bulgogi: Heat a pan with a little cooking oil over medium-high heat. Add the marinated beef and vegetables and stir-fry until the beef is cooked through and beautifully caramelized, adding more marinade as needed for desired sauciness.
- Serve and Enjoy: Serve hot with steamed rice and your choice of greens. Bulgogi is also incredibly versatile – try it in tacos, sandwiches, or lettuce wraps!
Tips for Bulgogi Perfection:
- Mushroom Variations: Feel free to experiment with different types of mushrooms. Oyster or enoki mushrooms are particularly delicious choices.
- Marinade Depth: Boiling the fruit juice for the marinade beforehand can create a more nuanced and refined flavor profile.
- Fruit Substitutions: If Asian pear is unavailable, half a cucumber can provide a refreshing twist. You can also explore other fruits like pineapple or kiwi for subtle flavor variations.
Bulgogi, in its myriad forms, stands as a testament to the dynamic and evolving nature of cuisine. Whether enjoyed in its traditional home-style form or creatively reimagined in a taco or hoagie, bulgogi continues to captivate taste buds and connect cultures across the globe.
