Felt is a unique type of fabric characterized by its matted composition, where textile fibers are condensed and pressed together. Traditionally, felt was crafted from wool or animal fur. However, modern manufacturing techniques now allow for the production of felt using acrylic, acrylonitrile, rayon, and other synthetic fibers.
Wool felt stands out for its flame-retardant properties, capable of self-extinguishing in case of fire. It also excels in sound dampening, moisture-wicking, and absorption. Distinctively, felt is one of the few fabrics produced without the conventional processes of weaving or knitting.
Felt manufacturers employ heat, water, and pressure to permanently interlock these fibers, creating a cohesive, matted fabric. This resulting material can then be cut and shaped to produce various items, from hats to boot liners. The unique texture and versatility contribute significantly to What Is Felt in different applications.
A Glimpse into Felt History
Felt is considered the world’s oldest known fabric. Archaeological findings trace its origins back to approximately 6500 BC, predating any known knitted or woven textiles.
Origin myths vary across cultures. Western traditions attribute the invention of felt to either Saint Clement or Saint James. According to the tale, they placed natural fibers in their sandals to prevent blisters. The combination of heat, pressure, and sweat transformed these fibers into felt.
Sumerian legend credits the warrior hero Urnamman with the discovery of felt. Regardless of the specific narrative, felt-making has been integral to Eurasian societies for millennia.
The people of Tibet have historically relied on felt for its insulation. Even today, Tibetan holy men, including the Dalai Lama, wear traditional felt hats.
Early cultures in India utilized felt for blankets and saddles, while ancient Iran and Turkey commonly used it for floor mats. A significant application of felt in the ancient world was in the construction of yurts, the circular dwellings of the Mongols, which remain in use to this day.
Although the oldest preserved felt samples were discovered in Turkey, historical evidence points to the Altai Mountains as the birthplace of sophisticated felt production. The inhabitants of this region maintain an unbroken tradition of felt-making for yurts and tourist items that spans thousands of years, perfectly illustrating what is felt through cultural heritage.
The Beaver Hat Trade
From the 16th century onward, the economy of what is now southern Canada and the Great Lakes region of the United States was heavily reliant on the beaver felt hat trade. Between 1550 and 1850, hats made from beaver fur felt were among the most popular exports from the New World. The beaver pelt trade facilitated the establishment of British and French colonies throughout the inland American-Canadian border region.
Hatmakers, often called beaverkins, crafted beaver fur felt hats in various styles, including the iconic tophat. The high demand for beaver felt nearly caused the extinction of North American beavers. A shift in fashion trends ultimately saved the species.
Felt Fabric Today
While some hatmakers still produce beaver felt hats, many manufacturers have transitioned to more sustainable alternatives like wool. While felt remains a popular hat material, its uses have expanded to include other accessories, homewares, and crafting materials.
The invention of acrylic fabric in the early 20th century presented the felt industry with a cheaper alternative to natural fibers. However, while natural felt is known for its fire-resistant properties, acrylic is highly flammable. Other synthetic fibers used in felt production, such as rayon, are also more flammable than wool.
Therefore, high-quality felt is still produced using natural fibers like wool. Consumers generally associate acrylic or rayon felt with lower-quality products. Felt never fully regained the popularity it had during the beaver hat era. However, many cultures worldwide continue to use felt for traditional purposes, unaffected by the temporary style craze, understanding truly what is felt in tradition.
The Felt Fabric Manufacturing Process
The felt production process varies based on the type of fiber used (wool, acrylic, or other). For wool felt, fibers are obtained from wool-bearing animals. In the case of acrylic felt, fibers are created by dissolving a polymer in artificial chemicals and then spinning the resulting substance.
Once the desired fibers are acquired, they are combined into a mass using a cylindrical device with steel nails. A carding machine then transforms these fibers into a loose web with standardized spacing.
A cross-lapper, or vlamir, combines multiple webs to create a roll. Four of these rolls are layered to form a batt. To harden the batts, manufacturers expose them to heat and moisture. The final shrinking process involves a combination of heat, pressure, and moisture.
Most felt manufacturers use sulfuric acid during the final stages, neutralizing it with soda ash and warm water once the material has reached the desired size. Finally, an industrial machine uses rollers to smooth out any irregularities in the finished felt fabric, ensuring the quality of what is felt to the touch.
Felt manufacturers can then dye, cut, or form the felt to create consumer products or sell it in bulk sheets.
Common Applications of Felt Fabric
Today, textile manufacturers primarily use felt to produce hats and insulative materials like boot linings. Thicker and sturdier than woven or knitted wool, felt provides an excellent barrier against cold temperatures and is comfortable against the skin.
Outside of apparel, felt is used to make decorative pillows, handbags, and other homewares or accessories that benefit from its softness and other useful properties without needing to be significantly flexible. Felt is also a popular crafting material, allowing for endless creative possibilities. However, most crafting felt is made from acrylic, which is less comfortable and more harmful to the environment than wool felt, changing what is felt in terms of environmental impact.
Global Felt Production
Despite a recent decline in sheep livestock, Australia remains the world’s largest exporter of wool products, closely followed by China. Therefore, most woolen felt is manufactured in Australia, although some Australian sheep farmers ship their raw wool to China for finishing. China is also the world’s largest producer of synthetic textile products, so most acrylic and rayon felt is Chinese, influencing what is felt globally in terms of production.
Felt Fabric Cost
Genuine wool felt is reasonably expensive, typically comparable to other wool textiles. Acrylic and other synthetic felts are less expensive but lack the beneficial qualities of wool felt.
Types of Felt Fabric
Over the centuries, textile artisans have developed a variety of woolen or fur felt types. More recently, fabric manufacturers have started making felt with synthetic materials. Here are some of the different types of felt available:
1. Wool Felt
Wool felt is made using wool from sheep or other wool-bearing animals. It offers the beneficial attributes of its base fiber, including absorbency, fire resistance, and impressive insulation.
2. Fur Felt
Fur felt is made using beaver pelts or other animal furs. Fur felt is known for its durability and malleability. However, fur felt production involves the killing of fur-bearing animals, raising ethical concerns.
3. Acrylic Felt
Acrylic felt is cheaper to produce than wool felt and offers some of the same benefits. However, it is highly flammable and less comfortable against the skin.
4. Rayon Felt
Rayon felt is commonly used in industrial and medical applications due to its hydrophilic properties. However, like all synthetic textile fibers, rayon is a non-biodegradable pollutant.
5. Pressed Felt
Pressed felt is made by combining textile fibers into a mat using water, heat, and pressure. It is commonly sold in sheets and shaped into various consumer, industrial, and medical items.
6. Needled Felt
Needled felt is made using specialized needles to create three-dimensional figurines and other decorative products.
7. Woven Felt
Woven felt is made by applying heat, water, and pressure to pre-woven fabrics, creating a matted, highly insulative fabric that can be thinner than pressed felt.
Environmental Impact of Felt Fabric
Wool and fur felt are among the world’s most biodegradable substances. The main environmental concerns associated with these types of felt relate to land use and animal welfare. Modern fur harvesting is often considered unethical, and wool production can involve animal cruelty and cause pollution or soil erosion.
However, natural fibers are generally better for the environment than synthetic textiles. Acrylic and rayon production involve the use of toxic chemicals that can harm textile workers and pollute ecosystems.
Acrylic and rayon felt can also contribute to microfiber pollution. As non-biodegradable fabrics, they fill up landfills or contribute to plastic pollution when discarded. The choice in materials greatly affects what is felt in terms of environmental responsibility.
Available Felt Fabric Certifications
Wool felt fabrics may be eligible for Woolmark certification, ensuring safe, sustainable, and cruelty-free production processes. Certain fur felt fabrics produced in the European Union may be eligible for WelFur certification, which ensures responsible fur production.
Many sustainable fabrics may be eligible for OEKO-TEX certification, which certifies organic, sustainable production processes and even certain types of recycled synthetic textiles. Recycled synthetic textiles may also be eligible for Global Recycle Standard (GRS) certification, and all types of synthetic textiles may be eligible for International Organization for Standardization (ISO) certification.
