Soul food is more than just a style of cooking; it’s a vibrant tapestry woven with history, culture, and community. Imagine a summer afternoon filled with laughter and the aroma of delicious dishes at a church picnic in Wichita Falls, Texas. As the pastor’s granddaughter, I was part of setting up a feast of fried chicken, collard greens, mac and cheese, and cornbread. These weren’t just Southern dishes; they were soul food, a cuisine deeply connected to the hearts and heritage of the people gathered there.
That day, recipes were shared like cherished secrets, men played dominos between bites, and children ran around with joyful abandon. The flavors of Sister Phillips’ fried chicken, Sister Meadow’s mac and cheese, Sister Thompson’s cornbread, and Sister Gwen’s hummingbird cake remain vivid memories. This shared meal, concluded with a prayer of gratitude, was a profound experience of soul food in action.
But what exactly is soul food, and how does it differ from general Southern cuisine? While both share geographical roots and some ingredients, soul food carries a deeper, more specific meaning rooted in the African American experience.
Soul Food vs. Southern Food: Understanding the Key Differences
Often used interchangeably, “soul food” and “Southern food” are distinct yet related culinary traditions. Southern food encompasses the broader culinary landscape of 16 states in the American South, influenced by a mix of African, Native American, Spanish, French, and English cultures. It’s often described as “country cooking” or “comfort food,” featuring dishes like fried chicken, collard greens, cornbread, and sweet potato pie. Chef Kenny Gilbert of Gilbert’s Social aptly describes Southern food as being “all about utilizing what is available to you, what is in season… rural, country, comfort food and it is all about the sides.”
Soul food, however, is more specifically defined as African American heritage cooking – Southern food as prepared and enjoyed by Black people. The term “soul food” emerged during the Black Power movement of the late 1960s and 70s, a period of significant social and political change that fostered racial pride and celebrated African American culture and identity. This movement provided a platform to openly embrace and celebrate African American heritage, including its unique culinary traditions.
While soul food utilizes many of the same ingredients as Southern cooking, its origins and cultural significance set it apart. It’s not just about what is cooked, but how and why.
The Historical Roots of Soul Food: From Africa to America
The history of soul food stretches back centuries, beginning with the transatlantic slave trade in the 16th century. West African slaves were forcibly brought to the southeastern coast of the United States, bringing with them not only their skills and resilience but also crops like black-eyed peas, okra, sweet potatoes, rice, and melons. These crops became foundational to Southern cuisine, and African slaves played a crucial role in shaping it by incorporating greens, rice, and other vegetables into their cooking. Dishes like Hoppin’ John, a flavorful rice and pea dish, bear a striking resemblance to Waakye, a dish native to Ghana in West Africa, highlighting the direct culinary links. Similarly, collard greens and gumbo echo West African stews, demonstrating the enduring influence of African culinary traditions. The knowledge and utilization of these crops by enslaved cooks formed the bedrock of what we recognize today as soul food.
Despite their culinary expertise, enslaved cooks faced immense constraints. While they often prepared lavish meals for slave owners using prime ingredients, they were relegated to scraps and less desirable cuts of meat for themselves. These included parts like stomach lining, tongue, pig ears, and hogs’ heads. Lacking access to oil or butter, they ingeniously utilized animal fats for frying, baking, and general cooking. Vegetables were a precious commodity, often only available if they could be grown on small personal plots of land. For those without land, vegetables were a luxury, shared or simply forgone.
Chef Gilbert emphasizes this resourcefulness, stating, “Soul food is about using what is leftover and taking from the land in order to survive and feed your family.”
Resourcefulness and Innovation: Making the Most of Scraps
From these cast-off ingredients, enslaved cooks created culinary masterpieces. Dishes like oxtails, slow-cooked cow’s tails simmered to tenderness and served over rice, and chitterlings, or chitlins, made from pig intestines boiled and seasoned, exemplify this ingenuity. “Our ancestors used spices and flavors to mask the smell of certain meats,” Chef Gilbert explains. “They would add peas, okra and greens to make something substantial in order to work in the field. The food was about nourishing their families and surviving.”
This necessity-driven creativity led to the development of unique flavors and cooking techniques. Because literacy was often denied to enslaved people, recipes and culinary knowledge were passed down orally through generations. This tradition of resilience and resourcefulness is embedded within every soul food dish.
Soul Food Today: A Celebration of Heritage and Community
Today, soul food has evolved from a cuisine of survival to a celebrated culinary tradition. Family recipes, honed over generations, are treasured and passed down, each with unique preparations and flavor profiles that distinguish them. “For me, soul food is always tied to a memory from my childhood. It is my grandma’s cooking, it’s family, it’s the smell of different flavors when you walk in the house,” reflects Kalin Anderson, a chef at Gilbert’s Social. “Soul food comes from the soul, so it hits the soul differently.”
Celestia Mobley, executive chef and owner of Jazzy’s Restaurant and Lounge, a soul food establishment, learned her craft from her grandmother, highlighting this intergenerational culinary传承. Soul food restaurants are becoming increasingly popular, offering a taste of this rich heritage to a wider audience.
Chef FiFi Jackson of Ambitious Food Truck encapsulates the essence of soul food: “Soul food is generational, it’s communal.” It’s about bringing people together, sharing family traditions, and experiencing the love and history infused in each dish. It’s a way to share the African American experience with the world.
While rooted in a difficult past, soul food has become a source of pride and a testament to the resilience and creativity of African American culture. As Chef Mobley notes, “What once was considered slave food, and had so many stigmas attached to it, is now celebrated.” She believes soul food will continue to evolve, perhaps becoming healthier and more sustainable, with chefs pushing creative boundaries. However, its core will remain unchanged. “It won’t leave, it’s the food our ancestors taught us how to cook. It’s been passed down to us, it’s been here for generations and it includes our love and soul.”
Soul food is more than just the dishes on the plate; it’s a powerful narrative of history, community, and enduring cultural identity. It’s a taste of soul.
*This story is inspired by Edible Northeast Florida. Photography by Stefanie Keeler.
