For a while, the Russian manicure was one of the best-kept secrets within the nail salon industry. Only a select few nail technicians were skilled in performing and promoting this specialized method. However, thanks to its viral explosion on TikTok, everything has changed. Now, “Russian manicure near me” has become a top beauty search query on Google, reflecting its soaring popularity.
Like many trends that find fame on TikTok, the Russian manicure isn’t actually a new invention. The real shift is simply that more people are now aware of its existence and the unique results it offers. Natalie Zheltovski, a renowned Russian manicure expert, educator, and owner of Nail Art House Academy + Nail Salon in Austin, notes, “I’ve been practicing Russian manicures and educating clients about this technique since 2016. Back then, hardly anyone knew about it, but today, clients are specifically seeking out salons that offer this service.” Zheltovski attributes this dramatic change to the technique’s “impressive results,” and also acknowledges the role of its controversial nature in fueling its widespread popularity.
Russian Manicure: Answering Your FAQs
Decoding the Russian Manicure: What Sets It Apart?
It’s important to understand that the term Russian manicure refers to a specific grooming technique, rather than a particular nail art style. Therefore, it’s distinct from visual styles like a French manicure. You might also hear Russian manicures called by other names, including combination manicure, e-file manicure, or dry manicure, explains Zheltovski. “A Russian manicure is essentially a combination of meticulous cuticle work, which can be achieved using various tools like nail bits, scissors, or nippers, depending on the nail technician’s preference, combined with a gel overlay for lasting color.”
A defining characteristic of the Russian manicure is that it’s performed entirely dry, meaning your hands are not soaked in water at any point during the process. Dr. Dana Stern, a board-certified dermatologist specializing in nail health in New York City and an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine, elaborates on the technique: “A Russian manicure emphasizes the complete removal of the cuticle, meticulous and precise removal of any existing gel or polish, and a focus on a flawless polish application. Drill-like tools and sometimes scissors are employed to remove the cuticle and surrounding skin, and abrasive brushes may also be used for intense exfoliation.”
In simpler terms, the Russian manicure technique aims to remove as much skin as possible from the nail bed area. This creates more surface area for polish application, resulting in a remarkably “cleaner”-looking finish. Additionally, this extensive cuticle work can extend the time between manicure appointments, as it takes longer for the skin and nail to grow back compared to standard manicures.
Why the Controversy Surrounding Russian Manicures?
“While I can appreciate the allure of certain trends, this particular one has me quite puzzled,” remarks Dr. Stern, echoing the sentiments of many in the dermatology and nail care fields. While the Russian manicure trend has amassed over 1 billion views on TikTok, there are also over 100 million videos discussing concerns about its safety. Much of this cautionary content comes from dermatologists and experienced nail technicians who advise against the technique, although opinions within online communities often differ.
The primary reason for concern among dermatologists lies in the crucial role of the cuticle. “The cuticle serves as the nail’s natural protective barrier, preventing yeast and bacteria from penetrating the nail unit,” Dr. Stern explains. “Repeatedly removing the cuticle can increase the risk of developing a chronic nail infection known as chronic paronychia. Because this technique is inherently more aggressive than a typical manicure, it carries a higher potential for infection. Therefore, it’s absolutely critical that all tools used are impeccably sterilized to mitigate this risk.” In essence, while Russian manicures can deliver aesthetically pleasing results, they inherently involve a greater risk of infection compared to other manicure types if not performed with strict hygiene and expertise.
