Viscose is a prevalent material in the fashion world, often recognized as rayon. This man-made cellulosic fiber (MMCF) originates from trees, yet its eco-friendliness and overall benefits are frequently debated. Recently, viscose has become a significant topic of environmental concern. Here’s a comprehensive guide to understand everything about viscose fabric.
Delving into Viscose: More Than Just a Fabric
Often presented as a more sustainable choice compared to cotton or polyester, viscose has gained popularity in the fashion industry. It’s valued as a more affordable and resilient alternative to silk and is commonly used in flowy summer dresses, soft blouses, skirts, and even synthetic velvet. However, viscose extends beyond apparel, finding its way into home textiles like upholstery, carpets, and bedding.
A Glance at Viscose History: From Lab to Wardrobe
The story of viscose rayon is rooted in Europe. Hilaire de Chardonnet (1839-1924), a French scientist and industrialist, is credited with the invention of the first commercial viscose fiber. His aim was to create a cheaper substitute for silk. Initially, the fabric’s high flammability led to its market withdrawal. It wasn’t until the German Bemberg Company developed a safer production method that viscose regained traction. In 1892, British scientists Charles Frederick Cross, Edward John Bevan, and Clayton Beadle officially patented the viscose production process, paving the way for the first commercial viscose rayon in 1905. This marked the beginning of viscose’s journey into becoming a widely used textile.
The Making of Viscose: From Wood Pulp to Fabric
Viscose production begins with cellulose, or wood pulp, derived from fast-growing and regenerative trees such as eucalyptus, pine, and beech. This cellulose is then dissolved in a chemical solution, transforming it into a viscous, pulpy substance. This substance is subsequently spun into fibers, which are then processed into threads ready for fabric creation.
Bamboo viscose represents another variation, utilizing cellulose from bamboo plants but following a similar manufacturing process.
Viscose and Sustainability: Unpacking the Environmental Impact
While viscose originates from plant-based sources, making it seemingly non-toxic and less polluting inherently, the reality is more complex. The rapid growth of the fast fashion industry has led to mass production of viscose through cost-effective methods. These processes are often energy-intensive, water-consuming, and rely heavily on chemicals, resulting in adverse effects on the environment, local communities, and workers.
Two primary concerns overshadow viscose production: the source of the wood pulp and the chemical-intensive process of converting it into fabric.
The transformation of wood pulp into viscose involves treatment with various chemicals, followed by filtering and spinning into fine threads. This process is known to be highly polluting, releasing toxic chemicals into the air and water systems surrounding manufacturing plants. Carbon disulfide, a key chemical used, is particularly concerning. It’s a toxic substance linked to serious health issues including coronary heart disease, birth defects, skin problems, and even cancer, impacting not only textile workers but also residents near viscose factories.
A 2017 investigation by the Changing Markets Foundation exposed the connection between major fashion brands like H&M, Zara, and Marks & Spencer and highly polluting viscose factories in countries like China, India, and Indonesia. Beyond pollution, the sourcing of wood pulp raises concerns about deforestation, its impact on communities, and threats to wildlife.
Viscose production significantly contributes to global deforestation, as forests are cleared to establish pulpwood plantations. It’s estimated that over a third of wood pulp used in clothing still comes from ancient and endangered forests. This deforestation leads to habitat destruction, endangering species and often involves human rights violations and land encroachment on Indigenous communities. Organizations like Canopy are actively working to ensure viscose is sourced responsibly, avoiding high-risk areas.
The fast fashion industry’s demand for rapid production at lower costs exacerbates these issues. While major brands possess the resources to promote sustainable manufacturing, meaningful action has been slow. A Changing Markets Foundation report indicates that despite progress in eliminating endangered forest fibers by viscose suppliers, a significant majority of leading brands have shown limited commitment to sourcing more sustainable viscose.
Exploring Sustainable Alternatives to Viscose
Fortunately, advancements in technology are bringing forth more sustainable materials and production methods. ECOVERO, produced by Lenzing, is a notable example of viscose fiber made from sustainably sourced wood from controlled and certified European sources like the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) and the Program for Endorsement of Forest Certification Schemes (PEFC). Compared to conventional viscose, ECOVERO™ production significantly reduces environmental impact, using 50% less water and halving carbon emissions. Moreover, ECOVERO prioritizes responsible chemical management with nearly all chemicals used being recovered and reused.
TENCEL Lyocell, Modal, and upcycled viscose represent further ethical and sustainable alternatives currently available. Emerging innovations also include bamboo Lyocell, REFIBRA, and Eastman Naia (especially Naia Renew, made from recycled materials and responsibly sourced wood pulp). These materials are gaining recognition for their lower environmental impact.
Other promising fibers like Infinna and Circulose utilize cellulose derived from textile waste, while Orange Fiber, a version of TENCEL Lyocell, is made from orange peel waste. Although some of these innovative fibers may not yet be widely available commercially or fully assessed, they signify positive progress in the realm of viscose and rayon alternatives.
Textile Exchange reports that in 2022, only a small fraction of man-made cellulosic fibers (MMCFs) were produced using recycled materials. However, increased investment in this area suggests a positive shift towards more recycled options in the future, driven by brand support and consumer demand.
Discover Brands Championing Viscose Alternatives
Explore brands committed to sustainable alternatives to viscose
Making Conscious Choices: Beyond Viscose
Consumers can actively contribute to a more sustainable fashion industry. Opting for garments made from plant-based, organic, or recycled fibers like organic cotton, hemp, and linen, and choosing products with lower-impact dyes are impactful steps. It’s crucial to remember that some “natural” materials like conventional cotton and wool also carry ethical concerns regarding environmental impact, animal welfare, and labor rights.
Ultimately, reducing consumption and embracing second-hand shopping are powerful actions. Buying less and choosing thoughtfully minimizes environmental impact. Exploring pre-loved clothing offers a unique style while being kinder to the planet and your wallet.
Further Reading on Sustainable Materials
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